Since Forest & Marcy opened a few months ago now it’s been on my list to visit. A small (very small) neighbourhood style wine bar and kitchen, Forest & Marcy is the sister venue of John & Sandy Wyer’s Forest Avenue. Chef Ciaran Sweeney is in the kitchen here at Forest & Marcy preparing mostly small plates, offering food that is seasonal and contemporary. The kitchen is open, the seating is all high stools & tables with the bar counter and I love it.
Forest & Marcy is small but exceptionally well designed which does not feel at all cramped or tight on space when you are in it. Large mirrors and polished surfaces add to the feeling of light throughout. I visited this location when it was Rigbys and it is hard to reconcile them as the same space. It was a Sunday afternoon when we visited so a little quieter than the evenings which was nice.
A reasonably comprehensive wine list, although slightly on the pricier end, but lots of choice by the glass too. We decided on a bottle of Dreissigacker Riesling, 2014 (€42). First up, crusty onion sourdough bread with butter. We decided to have a couple of dishes to share first. So we started with a BLT (€4) – not your usual BLT, an airy cracker base with the constituent parts and flavours of the BLT there although it’s icy cold. Probably my least favourite dish of them all but still fantastic.
Next up was Fermented Potato bread, bacon & cabbage (€8). This Fermented potato bread is Ciaran Sweeney’s signature dish and is simply divine. One of the best things I’ve eaten, ever. I love the play on a very traditional Irish dish, modernised, full of flavour and utterly delicious. I would happily have drunk the bacon mousse straight from that cup. Actually who am I kidding, that would not have been enough!
Then we separated and ordered a dish each. For him Smoked salmon, lovage, radish (€12). Before being served, the salmon was brought to us in a wooden box filled with smoked hay, and we were told the story of the salmon and how they prepare it. The smell of the smoking hay whets your appetite for what is to come.
I ordered the vegetarian special of the day (€16) – Torteletti of smoked mozzarella, tomatoes, consomme – sublime, incredible, amazing… cliche words I know but it was a superb plate of food and one I’d happily eat again and again. A thin slice of focaccia with a pesto top accompanied it.
Two cheeses (€12) to finish, and a couple glasses of Le Grappin, Fleurie du Grappin (€11 ea.). With filtered water at €1 each, our total bill came to €118 (not excluding service). More than worth it for the wonderful food we enjoyed, the wine, the service, the space itself. I can’t wait to go back to Forest & Marcy. What the chef and owners are doing here is nothing short of exceptional.
Forest & Marcy | 126 Leeson St Upper, Dublin 4 | 01 660 2480 | firstname.lastname@example.org